The Hidden Treasures of Embekke Devalaya in Sri Lanka: A Must-See Historical Landmark

Located in the heart of Sri Lanka’s hill country, Embekke Devalaya is a testament to the rich cultural heritage and architecture of the island. This fascinating temple, located in Udunuwara in the Kandy district, is renowned for its stunning wood carvings – thought to be the finest in all Asia. In spite of these attractions, Embekke Devalaya remains a hidden gem in Kandy. However, travellers and history lovers should not miss paying a visit to this temple to discover its unique art, architecture and religious significance.

Embekke Devalaya was built during the reign of King Vikramabahu III of the Gampola Kingdom (1357–1374 AD). The temple is dedicated to a local deity, Kataragama Deviyo, a guardian deity revered all over Sri Lanka. According to legend, the temple was built after Queen Henakanda Biso Bandara experienced several visions. Her devotion and the patronage of the King led to the building of this architectural marvel.

The temple compound consists of three parts: the Sanctum (Garagha), Dancing Hall (Hevisi Mandapaya), and Drummers’ Hall (Digge). However, it is the Drummers’ Hall that is most popular, due to its exquisite wood carvings in Kandy – each one a work of art that combines folklore, legend, and tales of everyday life.

The temple has the finest example of ancient Sri Lankan wood carvings. It is constructed using Gammalu, Na, Dunumala, and Milla wood, and the carvings showcase the unparalleled skill of local craftsmen.

The pillars and doorframes of the Drummers’ Hall are at the centre of this artistic edifice. All 32 wooden pillars are intricately carved, and no two are identical. The motifs are:

• Hansa Puttuwa (Swan entwined in vine): Symbolising purity and elegance.
• Nari Latha (A woman sprouting from a vine): Symbolising beauty and fertility.
• Dancing figures and wrestlers: Depicting the joy of festivals and human interactions.
• Mythical creatures like Gajasingha (lion-elephant hybrid): Symbolising power and strength.

The Devala complex features an array of carvings, including 125 series of decorations, 256 festoon-style designs, 64 lotus motifs, and 30 decorative patterns, along with various roof designs. The building is 52 feet in length and 25 feet wide.

One of the most fascinating elements of this carved wooden temple are the wooden joints used in the construction, known as the “Madol Kurupuwa”. This is an ancient engineering technique where wooden pegs interlock beams together without nails. This system has kept the structure standing for over six centuries.

The temple is also full of interesting legends. According to one, a master builder dreamed about building the temple and laid out the beautiful pillars based on what he saw. According to another legend, one of the pillars, the “Biso Kotuwa,” has carvings of the queen’s jewel box.

Tradition holds that parts of the temple woodwork were taken from a nearby royal audience hall that had collapsed, while the remaining woodwork was carved specially for the Devalaya.

While the aesthetic beauty of Embekke Devalaya is a highlight, its spiritual ambiance is another draw. The faithful visit the temple to receive the blessings of Kataragama Deviyo. Traditional drumming, dancing, and rituals are carried out during traditional festivals throughout the year, such as the Esala Perahera that commemorates Sri Lanka’s rich heritage.

The edifice is also associated with nearby temples such as the Lankatilaka Vihara and Temple Gadaladeniya, to form a triad of temples built during the Gampola dynasty. Most tourists visit all three sites to gain an in-depth experience of the religious and architectural heritage of Sri Lanka.

Embekke Devalaya is surrounded by the tranquil beauty of the central hills. Following a visit to the temple, visitors can enjoy a leisurely walk around the village and experience the culture and hospitality of the locals. Points of interest around the temple are the lush Hanthana Mountain Range, and the tranquil Kandy Lake.

Travellers can find accommodation within Kandy or just outside the town, at top five-star hotels such as Jetwing Kandy Gallery.

Embekke Devalaya’s mysteries are waiting to be uncovered for those willing to step off the beaten path. When you plan your next trip to Sri Lanka, make it a point to explore the wonders of Embekke Devalaya, a shining example of traditional Sri Lankan architecture.